Future Fibres Network+

Decarbonising the fashion industry
Close up of blue clothes hanging up
Title: Future Fibres Network+
Funded by: UKRI
Dates: 2023–2024
Partners: University of Exeter (lead), University of the Arts London, University of Blackburn, University of Leeds, and University of Huddersfield
Investigators: Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS , Dr Kayleigh Wyles , Dr Katie Major-Smith , Dr Max Kelly
Future Fibres Network+ builds a critical mass of research and industry expertise to embed environmental sciences at the heart of the fashion and textiles sector. It will assemble the environmental evidence base for a paradigm shift in these industries, making them more sustainable through systematic changes that promote circular principles. The Network aims to be a catalyst for the adoption of economically viable and scalable circular models by 2031, helping to achieve net zero targets by 2050.
A £1.6 million project, it will build on the University's extensive research into the sustainability of the fashion industry.

A one tonne a minute problem

In the UK, one tonne of textile waste is produced every minute. Globally, an estimated 100 billion garments are produced each year. Less than 1% are recycled into new clothing. Using regenerative materials that regrow, renew or restore is one solution, as is a focus on clothing longevity and recycling.
However, significant barriers exist, including a disconnect between the textile and fabric care industries – clothing that is difficult to keep clean often ends up in landfills. Recycling efforts also face substantial obstacles, particularly with common textiles like polyester, as the low quality of recycled polyester pellets limits their reuse. Additionally, some garments are made from environmentally harmful materials like neoprene, which is widely used in wetsuits and surf accessories. Neoprene contributes to air pollution and poses a risk to human health.
Landfill site in Malaysia - image courtesy of Getty Images
 
 

Increasing textile circularity: understanding barriers to recycled fibre quality and perception

Dates: November 2023–August 2024
Partners: Plan B Recycling Technologies Ltd
Investigators: Dr Max Kelly (lead), Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS , Dr Katie Major-Smith , Dr Shelley Kotze , Dr Kayleigh Wyles , Tim Cross (Plan B)
Polyester is the most commonly used fibre in the textile industry. It has significant fibre-to-fibre recycling potential but the low quality of polyester pellets often hinders this due to contaminants in used clothing. The lack of adoption of new yarn innovations by brands further restricts the widespread used of recycled garments. Bringing together environmental scientists, psychologists and industry experts, this project will tackle these issues by:
  1. Developing a pre-recycling treatment process to improve the quality of recycled polyester pellets – scaled from laboratory to industrial levels to ensure real-world application, the process will include shredding, washing and drying for used garments.
  2. Understanding stakeholders' perceptions with social science research – engaging with supply-chains (fashion practitioners, brands, consumers) to identify key issues that hinder the adoption of fibre-to-fibre recycling and address the barriers to accepting recycled textiles.
  3. Understanding microfibre release – the environmental impacts of microfibre release during laundry, comparing various designs and compositions of recycled polyester compared to virgin polyester.
  4. Creating the first knowledge repository for optimal pre-recycling cleaning methods and perceived barriers to textile recycling.
Clothing recycling centre
 
 

Enhancing circularity in the surfing and diving industry: examining the scope for neoprene recycling in the UK

Dates: November 2024–May 2025
In the UK, over 380 tonnes of neoprene products are burnt or end up in landfill each year. There is no end-of-life solution. Dr Kayleigh Wyles and Dr Katie Major-Smith (Research and Evaluation Lead for UKRI Circular Fashion and Textiles Network Plus) are working with Circular Flow to explore whether a neoprene recycling facility can be deployed in the UK to recycle and repurpose neoprene products.
This would be modelled on a similar facility developed by Circular Flow in Bulgaria.
The project will establish levels of interest from UK businesses for returning products to a central repository, determine consumers' willingness to purchase and wear recycled neoprene products, and explore the logistical components of the developing the recycling facility.
With this established, an investment pack will be created and made available to funders for potential future investment in the facility.
 
 

FABRIOTIC: biotic textiles as an enabler of improved circularity

Dates: October 2023–August 2024
Partners: Northumbria University (lead), Newcastle University, Proctor & Gamble
Investigators: Dr Angela Sherry (lead), Dr Jane Scott, Dr Max Kelly , Professor Richard Thompson OBE FRS , Dr Neil Lant
Textile circularity can be improved by integrating the design of textiles and the products used to care for them. This could significantly extend the lifetime of fabrics, and improve their properties so they are easier to recycle – such as 100% polyester.
Athletic clothing is typically discarded prematurely due to the development of malodour, known as 'permastink'. FABRIOTIC will pilot an integrated system involving biotic clothing prototypes containing Bacillus spores that alleviate persistent malodour.
Trials will be conducted to determine an improvement in the longevity of athletic clothing by preventing 'permastink' and overcome an important barrier to the adoption of highly recyclable, 100% polyester clothing and textiles.
The co-design of biotic textiles and care products could enable a circulatory breakthrough.

International Marine Litter Research Unit

Marine litter is a global environmental problem with items of debris now contaminating habitats from the poles to the equator, from the sea surface to the deep sea.
Furthering our understanding of litter on the environment and defining solutions.
Current and future effects of microplastics on marine ecosystems (the MINIMISE project)